Richemont announces management changes

montblancYesterday we wrote that LVMH announced yet another management change with the news of Stéphane Linder becoming the CEO of Tag Heuer and now rival luxury group Richemont has appointed two new Chief Executives to two of its brands.

In a statement, the luxury group has announced that Jerome Lambert will be the new head of Montblanc, whilst Daniel Riedo has been announced as CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Current Montblanc chief executive Lutz Bethge has been appointed non-executive chairman of the brand but would step down from the day-to-day runnings of the business on June 30 after 23 years in various roles at the firm.

Bethge will be replaced by Lambert, currently Jaeger-LeCoultre boss, effective July 1. Riedo, currently industrial director of Jaeger-Lecoultre, will succeed Lambert as head of the high-end watch maker.

Richemont will publish their yearly results next week (16th May) where they are confident about buoyant sales, despite a slowing Asian market.

By Cassandra Murnieks

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Tag Heuer announces new CEO

tag heuerOn Monday it was revealed that LVMH has announced a new CEO for their premium watch brand, Tag Heuer.

Francesco Trapani, President of LVMH’s Watch and Jewellery Division, announced the appointment of Stéphane Linder as Chief Executive Officer of TAG Heuer as of June 1st 2013.

Linder who is a part of the LVMH stable already is currently Vice President of Sales North America for TAG Heuer. He is taking over from Jean-Christophe Babin, who successfully developed the company since 2000 when he joined TAG Heuer as CEO.  Babin is now CEO of Bulgari, whilst former Bulgari CEO Michael Burke is the new boss of Louis Vuitton.

Linder joined Tag Heuer in 1993 in the research and development department, and has previously held the positions of R&D and Brand Director, and Vice President of Marketing and Product Design.

The newly announced CEO is the latest chink in the management reshuffle at the world’s biggest luxury group. Will this announcement be the last movement we see?

By Cassandra Murnieks

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Ermenegildo Zegna set to open 30 stores in 2013

zegnaDespite the negative global trend that is likely to have an impact on the luxury industry, Italian luxury house Ermenegildo Zegna will continue to invest and expand its retail network and to promote its brands within existing and markets.

The luxury house, known for its effortlessly stylish menswear released their 202 financial results recently, which showed sales of €1.261 billion rising by 12 per cent. Net profit rose 13 per cent to €130m. All the results are up on the previous year.

Over 90 per cent of sales came from exports, with emerging markets accounting for 46 per cent of total Group revenues. The main growth driving markets were Greater China, the USA, Russia and the Middle East. Contraction, on the other hand, was recorded in Spain, Japan and Korea. Results in Europe were positive overall, with sales in Italy, France and the UK buoyed by tourists.

Zegna’s retail operation played a particularly important role in the 2012 results, by generating 78 per cent of the brand’s sales, a rise of 16 percentage points in just four years.
In the Ermenegildo Zegna portfolio, there are currently 543 stores, 303 which are directly operated. The Italian menswear brand is looking to open 30 new stores this year, including stores in Kuwait City, Hanoi, Geneva, Beijing and China.

“2012 confirmed our positive trend despite a significant slowing down in the last quarter even in the economies that were driving growth. The negative trend in the global economy may well, in contrast with recent years, have an impact on the luxury industry. We are confident that we can generate positive financial results. In 2013, we will continue to invest in Europe, the USA, Mexico, People’s Republic of China, Australia and Singapore and in new markets, such as Nigeria and Vietnam, to expand our retail network. We will also have the contribution of Stefano Pilati, who has been appointed creative director of Agnona, from the summer 2014 collection, and Head of Style for Zegna Couture and the EZ shows.” Ermenegildo Zegna Group CEO Gildo Zegna said.

By Cassandra Murnieks

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Milan court rejects claims by Gucci

guessAnother day… another trademark dispute. This time it is Gucci v GUESS.

The Court of Milan concluded on May 2, in an 83 page ruling, rejecting all claims brought by the Florentine-based label against GUESS.

Marketwatch reports that the Italian Court has ordered the cancellation of Gucci’s diamond pattern, G logo, and “Flora” pattern trademarks. The cancelled registrations included 3 Italian trademarks and 4 trademarks covering the European Community. The Court has also rejected Gucci’s rights in a “Square G” logo.

But this isn’t the first time that the two companies have been in court battling it out over trademarks, with Gucci filing a suit against GUESS back in 2009. The logos in the Milan dispute were similar to those in New York as were the claims, which included trademark infringement, counterfeiting and unfair competition.

The New York case was closed in 2012, with Gucci receiving minimal monetary damages and narrow injunctions on a handful of logos. Now, the Court in Milan has totally rejected all of Gucci’s claims.

Whilst the 2009 case was lodged in New York, the second dispute was lodged in Milan, the birthplace of the Gucci brand.

The second time in court has been an important decision and judgement because the Court agreed with GUESS in practically all its principal arguments, ruling that the diamond pattern and floral motifs are common in the world of fashion and, in particular, that the popular GUESS Quattro G logo pattern (also with a single G in the corner of the diamond) has “nothing to do” with Gucci’s interlocking double G pattern, one of the principal claims made by Gucci.

“The Italian Court in Milan ruled today against each and every single claim that Gucci filed against Guess 4 years ago. In the same ruling the Court invalidated some of Gucci’s trademark registrations, including the floral print and diamond G logos. GUESS intends to continue to vigorously defend its trademark rights,” said Paul Marciano, CEO of GUESS.

“The tactics of Gucci are nothing less than bullying. Because of their endless resources, Gucci has been forum shopping all over the world to try and stop GUESS from expanding its successful accessories business. It’s fundamentally wrong and unconscionable. There are global trends that Gucci itself follows as anyone does in fashion; they are no different from GUESS in that regard. In my opinion, the 3 year battle in New York and 4 years in Milan was a result of massive and unnecessary litigation that should have been easily resolved with a simple phone call, which Gucci never made.”

Will there be a Round 3 in court between these two brands?

By Cassandra Murnieks

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Wholesale sales decline affects Hugo Boss’ first quarter

hugo bossGerman luxury house Hugo Boss have pointed their finger towards a challenging economic environment and a different timing of product deliveries to wholesale partners as having an adverse impact on the Hugo Boss Group’s sales and earnings performance in the first quarter.

Despite the set-back, the luxury house reaffirms its growth forecast for the year as a whole.

In the first quarter, Hugo Boss’ sales were €593 million. This is a 2 per cent decrease on sales from the previous year.

The luxury house has also explained another reason for the dip in their first quarter as being the different timing of product deliveries compared to the prior year following the introduction of the more season focused collection cycle and the resulting increasing importance of the Summer collection, which is mainly delivered in the second quarter, had a material impact on the negative development in the wholesale business.

From a regional perspective, growth was mixed in the first quarter. Sales in Europe, where wholesale remains the most important distribution channel, were down 5 per cent compared to the previous year. In the Americas, sales in local currencies increased by 6 per cent supported by a continued positive performance in the U.S. Slight growth in China led to a 1 per cent increase in sales in Asia after adjustment for currency effects.

For the remainder of 2013, Hugo Boss anticipates continued double-digit growth in its own retail business, while the wholesale channel is expected to record an approximately stable development. The luxury house also plans to expand its network with around 50 new stores excluding takeovers. 

“The market environment proved to be very challenging in the early months of this year”, says Claus-Dietrich Lahrs, Chief Executive Officer of HUGO BOSS AG. “With a better performance of the wholesale business in the further course of this year, we shall return to renewed growth in the second quarter already. We therefore reconfirm our sales and profit targets for 2013.”

By Cassandra Murnieks

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Karl Lagerfeld turns his hand to producing… again.

It is no secret that Karl Lagerfeld is a visionary. We know how talented the Chanel Creative Director is when it comes to clothing and couture, but of course we cannot help but notice that Mr Lagerfeld continues his very strong passion and interest for his photography and directing.

Once Upon a Time… is a short film written and directed by Karl Lagerfeld for the 2013/14 Cruise collection which will be presented in Singapore on Thursday May 9th 2013… 100 years after Gabrielle Chanel’s first boutique opened in Deauville.

This short film stars Hollywood A-lister Keira Knightley in the role of Gabrielle Chanel, Clotilde Hesme, models Stella Tennant, Lindsey Wixon and Jamie Bochert, Caroline de Maigret, Lady Amanda Harlech and her daughter Tallulah, as well as Baptiste Giabiconi, Sébastien Jondeau, Jake Davis and Brad Kroenig along with his son Hudson.

Lagerfeld recounts the early days of Gabrielle Chanel when she opened her first fashion boutique in Deauville in 1913. With her Aunt Adrienne at her side, she was an immediate success and her clientele grew rapidly.

Once Upon a Time… will be shown in Singapore on May 9th at 10.30pm (AEST). It will be available simultaneously on chanelnews.com.

We hope that you enjoy the teaser as much as us…

By Cassandra Murnieks

Footage courtesy of Chanel Public Relations

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Louis Vuitton opts for a ‘casino’ approach

LouisVuittonHongKongLandmarkHQYou have to give points to Louis Vuitton for their entrepreneurial flair…

With the retail and luxury industry in a spin over online shopping or a global financial crisis that has gripped the majority of the world, businesses now have to think out of the square in attracting business, in a bid to not affect their bottom dollar.

Louis Vuitton has now turned to offering junkets to wealthy Chinese clients to spend up a storm in their Hong Kong boutiques.

Why Hong Kong?

According to Reuters India, Luxury goods in mainland China can be anywhere between 30-40 per cent more expensive than in Hong Kong due to luxury and import taxes as well as pricing strategies.

Vincent Liu, managing director of Boston Consulting Group in Hong Kong says that about a third of luxury sales – from handbags and shoes to cosmetics – to Chinese take place in China versus a third in Hong Kong or Macau and a third in the rest of the world.

“Luxury companies’ results for Q1 certainly suggest that sales to Chinese consumers outside of China continue to grow faster than sales to Chinese consumers within China.” Liu said.

The luxury houses are also going one step further in holding private events in both Shanghai and Beijing in a bid to entice wealthy clientele to make a deposit on goods in China, but then flown to Hong Kong to complete the purchase.

This not only helps manage relationships with wealthy clients, but it also functions as an expensive marketing scheme. Industry experts compare this to tactics used by gambling firms to lure high-rollers to casinos by flying them in using private jets and putting them up in five-star hotels.

Richemont’s Piaget, a Swiss luxury watch brand, stages two all-inclusive trips each year for 50 VIP customers. This year it plans to increase the number, Chief Executive Philippe Leopold-Metzger told Reuters.

“This is the best way to talk about the brand and its heritage and its legitimacy,” said Leopold-Metzger, adding the number of visits would be “open”.

“Of course they buy, we don’t force them but they want to.” he said of VIP’s spending on the trips.

By Cassandra Murnieks

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Richemont expected to post soaring profits

piagetWith PPR only seeing a moderate increase in sales, rival luxury group Richemont has said that it expects its annual net profits to rise about 30 per cent.

The Swiss luxury group made a company announcement recently saying that trading for the year to March 2013 showed sales rising 14 per cent on a reported basis and 9 per cent on a constant currency basis against the comparative period.

On this basis, Richemont’s operating profit for the year to 31 March 2013 is likely to show an increase of approximately 18 per cent compared to the previous year.

It will be interesting to see the performance of two companies in Richemont’s portfolio – Piaget and Jaeger-LeCoultre…. Watch sales have leapt in the last year or so, with thanks to China, but now with the country experiencing a slow-down in growth and a crackdown on gifting luxury items by President Xi Jinping, we wonder how both companies sales will fare…

Swiss watch exports were up 1 per cent year-on-year in March, but have oscillated sharply in recent months, having fallen 3 per cent in February, risen 11 per cent in January and fallen 6 per cent in December.

Richemont’s results for the year to 31 March 2013 will be announced on 16 May.

By Cassandra Murnieks

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PPR’s shares slide after releasing first-quarter results

bottegaPPR’s less than impressive first-quarter sales have possibly reinforced fears that the luxury goods sector has run out of steam and reached a turning point.

How so? After the French luxury group, who changed their name recently from PPR to Kering (due to be formalised this June) released their first-quarter results, their shares dropped by 7 per cent. But it wasn’t only just PPR’s shares who dropped, with Reuters reporting that LVMH and Richemont’s shares also dropped by 1 per cent.

“The luxury goods sector will continue to outperform other markets but the pace of growth is likely to come down because it was not sustainable the way it was growing in the past 2-3 years,” said Scilla Huang Sun, who runs the JB Luxury Brands Fund with €320 million euros under management.

PPR’s sales for the first quarter rose a moderate 1 per cent to €2.36 billion, with that figure coming in below analysts’ expectations of €2.46 billion, as sales growth at the company’s luxury division cooled and revenue in the sport and lifestyle fell.

PPR last week underlined the “very high base of comparison established last year” for its luxury sales.

PPR Chief Financial Officer Jean-Marc Duplaix also said business in the division’s main brand Gucci had notably been affected by a downturn in demand in Europe from local shoppers and tourists alike.

In China, the main driver for the luxury industry has led to more cautious buying by the country’s consumers both at home and as tourists abroad. At the same time, the tough fiscal and economic climate in Europe has weighed on local shoppers.

PPR’s luxury stars – Gucci as well as Bottega Veneta and Yves Saint Laurent, saw revenue rise 4.5 per cent to €1.52 billion in the first three months of the year.

Duplaix said in China, where Gucci’s underlying growth reached “high single digits” (an increase of 10 per cent in the last quarter) economic growth “had yet to see signs of accelerating”, which was likely to affect its luxury brands.

The CFO added he is “cautious” about the company’s capacity to deliver a new year of strong growth in North America, after booming business last year.

François-Henri Pinault, Kering Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, commented: “Kering’s sales activities since the beginning of 2013 have been powered by our Luxury Division, which has continued to make headways in all regions of the world. In Fashion and Leather Goods, our robust performance above and beyond the very high base of comparison established last year confirms the tremendous appeal of our brands. In a jumpier environment, notably in Europe, sales of our Sport & Lifestyle Division contracted somewhat in the first months of the year. Following the appointment of its new CEO, Björn Gulden, Puma will step up the pace of implementation of its transformation plan. In this context, we remain firmly focused on controlling costs and preserving our gross margins. The unique strengths of each of our brands, combined with the energy and imagination of our teams, reinforce our confidence in the future and in our ability to further improve our performances in the full year.”

Has the luxury industry hit its full capacity? What are your thoughts?

By Cassandra Murnieks

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Ermenegildo Zegna celebrates wool in Sydney

Ermenegildo ZegnaThis week there was a buzz in Sydney surrounding the 50th Edition of the Ermenegildo Zegna Wool Trophies..

Over 1000 people flocked to Moore Park, which included international media, VIPs and celebrities to celebrate this historical event.

The night included the unveiling of an installation with multimedia projections, the longest men’s fashion show in Australia featuring more than 60 male models outfitted in the Fall /Winter 2013 collection and the presentation of the “Australian Celebration Collection”, a capsule dedicated to celebrate Zegna’s golden relationship with Australia.

The winner of the 50th Edition Ermenegildo Zegna Wool Award for Superfine Wool and the winner of the prestigious Vellus Aureum Trophy were both won by Ed & Jill Hundy of Windradeen and was presented by Gildo Zegna, CEO of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group and Chairman Paolo Zegna.

Ermenegildo Zegna Group is known for its stunning fabrics and history with wool and it is great to see the relationship grow between the Australian wool industry and the Italian fashion house.

Zegna’s quest continues for the finest raw materials, craftsmanship, style, art and environmental sustainability. And The MO Down relishes that we have all of this in our backyard….

By Cassandra Murnieks

Photo courtesy of Ermenegildo Zegna PR Office

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