Dolce & Gabbana found guilty of tax evasion

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana with Kylie Minogue

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana with Kylie Minogue

It’s a dark day for Italian design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana as they were handed a one year and eight months suspended sentence for hiding millions of euros from the tax authorities.

The MO Down first reported this in early April with the news that Italy’s Tax Commission had fined them €343.4 million.

WWD reports that it wasn’t just Dolce and Gabbana who were sentenced, but also accountant Luciano Patelli to the same sentence. Dolce’s brother Alfonso, general director Cristiana Ruella and finance director Giuseppe Minoni were sentenced to one year and four months in jail plus legal expenses.

It is unlikely that anyone will actually see jail time, with the sentences being below the two-year minimum generally required in Italy to do so.

The public prosecutor had asked for two and a half years, but the judge opted for a suspended sentence.

The investigation started back in 2008, when authorities unleashed a tax avoidance crackdown as the financial crisis began to deepen. But the probe that caught out the two designers is one of the few high-profile cases to come to trial so far.

The defendants were also charged with paying the Revenue Agency a provisional fine of €500,000. The plaintiff solicitor Gabriella Valadia at the end of May asked for a provisional fine of €10 million, citing damages to the image of the Revenue Service. Valadia at the time claimed that tax evasion “shows a system that is not credible and efficacious, it hurts the credibility of the Italian fiscal system, aggravated by the fact that the individuals at the centre of the trial are so famous.”

The court’s fine is separate from one imposed by the Revenue Agency of more than €400 million, at the end of March.

By Cassandra Murnieks

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Hermès set to sue LVMH

hermesIt seems that enough is enough for Hermès who are set to sue LVMH over the annulment of equity swaps used to secretly amass a stake in the French luxury house.

According to Reuters, an article has appeared in French newspaper Les Echos with Hermès arguing that LVMH had the intention to acquire Hermès shares as soon as it bought equity swaps in 2008. Those swaps were supposed to be settled in cash, but ended up being settled in Hermès shares.

A Hermès spokeswoman confirmed the newspaper report but gave no further details.

The war between the two powerhouse luxury houses has been the talking point amongst the industry for some time. The Hermès family have been fighting off Bernard Arnault and LVMH, which has resulted in the courts and regulators getting involved.

Hermès is contesting the legality of the stake build-up that LVMH has amassed over the years, which now sits at 22.6 per cent.

By Cassandra Murnieks

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Gucci to appeal court ruling

gucciThe definition of Trademark – A name, symbol, or other device identifying a product, officially registered and legally restricted to the use of the owner or manufacturer.

The definition of Copyright – The exclusive legal right to reproduce, publish, sell, or distribute the matter and form of something (as a literary, musical, or artistic work).

Both trademark and copyright are two words that keep popping up when it comes to the Gucci versus GUESS court case.

Gucci are trying to protect their highly coveted logos that help define them as a brand, which has now resulted in both being present in a courtroom.

We reported back in May that the Court of Milan rejected all claims brought by the Florentine-based label against GUESS.

The trademark war between the two companies goes back to 2009 and it would seem that there is no end to it yet with the news that Gucci is set to appeal a judgement.

Just-style.com reports that Gucci said it remains “surprised and disappointed with the outcome of the first instance sentence handed down by the Court of Milan”.

Gucci is requesting that the Court of Milan decision be overturned and all its claims of “brand infringement and unfair and parasitic competition against Guess be admitted”.

The Italian luxury house believes the appeal is necessary to protect its “historic wealth of iconic, distinctive signs, famous the world over, and, more generally, to protect the values of creativity and innovation of quality “Made in Italy” products”.

Gucci also said that contrary to claims made by Guess, it has had various contacts and meetings with the US firm and its lawyers to settle their differences out of court.

“The serious nature and extent of Guess’s alleged breaches, however, together with its unwillingness to look for a serious and reasonable solution have rendered all attempts at settlement vain,” Gucci said in a statement.

Will there be closure soon?

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LVMH backed fund sees potential in Australia

 

jones the grocer

jones the grocer

Expect LVMH to dip their toes in further investment in Australia and New Zealand.. That’s the word from Singapore-based L Capital Asia managing partner Ravi Thakran who was in Australia recently talking to The Wall Street Journal.

Luxury group LVMH back private-equity firm L Capital and recently raised $US1 billion for its fifth fund, which is its second dedicated to investments in the Asia Pacific region. The fourth fund was exhausted last month after the $US640 million purchase of a stake in Australian retailer R.M. Williams.

Thakran predicts that a possible American fund could be launched within the next year, with most of their focus on Europe and Asia at present. Due to the current opportunities in Asia, L Capital has allocated more money to the Asia funds, compared to the European funds.

“The nations in the Asia Pacific feel like they’re running on a treadmill, they’re moving fast. With China growing at around 7 per cent a year, India at around 6 per cent and Southeast Asia at around 5 per cent, we like the theme that these nations will continue to be the factory of the world,” Thakran said.

Even with the slowdown in China, the equity firm still see China as a place to be.

“Chinese entrepreneurs know how to manufacture almost everything and anything, they do it for everyone else at a reasonable price but when they’re doing it for themselves it’s an even better margin. They know their market and consumer better than anyone but they lack the knowledge of how to build brands. They have a basic idea, and often have a local celebrity ambassador, but they realise our execution and finesse can make a significant difference. I believe the day Chinese entrepreneurs understand the complete brand-building process, they’ll be world conquerors.”

Thakran confirms that L Capital will aim to spend between 45 and 50 per cent of the new fund in China. Whilst they aren’t looking to invest directly in Chinese companies, they will look to build their current investments in the region. But that isn’t the case with all their investments… With the recent stake acquisition in R.M. Williams, L Capital are looking to forgo China at first in place of the North American, British, Japanese, Korean, South American markets before looking at the Middle East, China and Southeast Asia.

Whilst Asia still promises much opportunity, L Capital has identified Australian and New Zealand food and beverage companies as the ones to watch.

“Australian and New Zealand food and beverage companies have an incredible reputation in places like China which face major food-security issues. A natural advantage is the huge number of international students, specifically from China, who come to Australia young and impressionable and return home as ambassadors for a different quality of life, with a view on anything from milk to fresh produce.” Thakran said.

To date, L Capital has invested in jones the grocer and burger joint Charlie & Co., both which  have expanded into Southeast Asia and soon to be launched in the United Arab Emirates.

By Cassandra Murnieks

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Sales rise for Prada but cost cutting on the cards

SONY DSCPrada released their Q1 results overnight, with sales up by 14 per cent.  The growth has also prompted the Italian luxury house to cool their heels in adopting a focus on cost control.

Net income rose 14 per cent to €138.2 million in the three months through April, whilst same store sales growth increased by 8 per cent.  Revenue also climbed 14 per cent to €782.3 million, trailing the average estimate of €790.3 million.

Although business is still positive, revenue growth has significantly decelerated in recent months, down from the blistering pace recorded throughout most of 2012.

In the fourth quarter of last year, Prada posted a 16 per cent on-year rise in sales, less than half of the 35 per cent increase registered for the previous nine months.

Asia continues to be the strongest performing market for the luxury brand, with sales up by 25 per cent. Sales jumped by 23 per cent in the Americas, whilst the Italian domestic market slid by 8 per cent.

Leathergoods continue to dominate for the Italian luxury house, with reported sales of €538.4 million compared to €417.3 million the previous year.

Prada currently has 462 stores in their portfolio and plan on opening another 80 stores this year.

The international economic environment “remains extremely volatile and uncertain,” Prada Chief Executive Officer Patrizio Bertelli said today in the statement.

Luxury-goods makers have reported a slowdown in recent months. PPR reported first-quarter revenue in April that missed analysts’ estimates as Gucci posted its weakest quarterly growth in more than three years amid a weak European economy.

By Cassandra Murnieks

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Emma Hill to leave Mulberry

EmmaHillIt’s been a tumultuous few days for British luxury brand Mulberry with the news that Creative Director Emma Hill would be moving on..

 The news not only shocked the industry and Mulberry, but also the stock market with shares taking a dip.

 Mulberry’s shares fell by 8.2 per cent, which was the steepest intraday drop since March 22, according to Bloomberg.

 Hill has held the creative helm at Mulberry for six years, where she carved the brand into the global powerhouse it is today.

 Where does Mulberry go from here? From a branding perspective it should be more about the ‘brand’ and not the ‘person’ behind the brand.  Whilst creative directors such as Emma Hill, Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld etc become synonymous with a brand – the brand with its own story, tradition, product, distribution and pricing strategy should always remain timeless allowing brands to evolve – that is what makes true luxury brands sustainable.

 Whilst Tom Ford is a wonderful Creative Director, many suggested Gucci would never be the same when Tom departed the double Gs but the brand has continued to be coveted under the creative hand and eye of Frida Giannini.  Brands not evolving become stale and ultimately stuck in the past… Modernity is key with a healthy respect for the past!

The announcement is the latest in a series of setbacks for Mulberry, which said in March that reduced tourist spending in London would cause full-year sales and profit to miss estimates. The luxury-goods maker is experiencing a period of consolidation while it lays the foundations for future growth, Chief Executive Officer Bruno Guillon said at the time.

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Burberry CEO earns the tag of best paid person in corporate Britain

angelaIt’s good to see a female CEO make their mark in a male-dominated world..

The CEO that we are referring to is Burberry CEO Angela Ahrendts, who has become the first female at the top of Britain’s pay league, taking home a pay package of £16.9million in 2012.

The Guardian reports that  Ahrendts took home almost £5million more than the next highest paid chief executive, according to a survey of bosses at Britain’s top 350 listed companies by corporate governance group Manifest and pay consultancy MM&K.

The £16.9million figure included bonuses, benefits and the sale of bonus shares.. The package makes Ahrendts the best paid person in corporate Britain and it is the first time a woman has ever risen to the top of the executive pay league.

Ahrendts has been heralded with the success of turning Burberry around into one of the most marketable and profitable companies globally.

The mother of three has risen from modest beginnings as one of six siblings from smalltown America. She harboured ambitions of a fashion career as she sewed her own clothes, to become one of the most powerful executives in the multibillion-pound luxury goods industry.

Burberry, who were and still known for their stylish and hip trench-coats are now dipping their toe further into the luxury pool by launching their own fragrances and cosmetics line.

When Ahrendts first started with Burberry, the word ‘chav’ was still used to describe people who dressed in head-to-toe Burberry. But that word no longer has an association with Burberry, with the British luxury house becoming more luxurious these days.

Her pay package for the 2011-12 financial year was £990,000, on top of which she collected a £2million bonus. The company also paid £255,000 into her pension along with a further a “cash allowance” of £387,000, which includes a clothing allowance on top of her staff discount and money for her relocation to the UK from the US in 2006.

The reason why her pay package was a lot higher last year was due to her selling £11.9million of shares awarded under bonus plans from previous years.

Burberry will reveal Ahrendts pay for the 2012-13 financial year within the next two weeks.

By Cassandra Murnieks

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Chinese still continues to dangle the gold cherry

chineseluxuryshoppersChina was the pinnacle…With money to spend and a thirst for luxury, China was the place to be… Luxury houses scrambled to open stores not only in major cities such as Shanghai and Beijing, but also in second and third tier cities as well.

From 2007 to 2011 many luxury houses enjoyed double-digit annual growth in China, which became their most important market. But in 2012 that painted a different picture.. an economic slowdown and a change in political rules as well as a crackdown on corrupt gift-giving and a populist backlash against ostentation added to the woes.

It wasn’t just handbags and high-end jewellery/watches that the Chinese had a thirst for…. with The Economist reporting that high-end banqueting was also in demand. Beijing Xiangeqing, an upmarket catering outfit that is usually highly profitable, plunged into the red last quarter. Sales of shark fin, the key ingredient of a soup served at fancy dinners, are down by around 70 per cent year-on-year. Imports of bottles of Bordeaux costing more than $US800 have collapsed.

So what now for the luxury industry in China?

Sales in China are still going strong, but just not as strong as they once were. A few examples include: imports of Swiss watches fell 24 year-on-year in the first quarter of 2013. But Andrew Keith of Lane Crawford, a high-end department store that first opened in Hong Kong in 1850, reports no slowdown at his stores there or in Beijing. Burberry, enjoyed sales growth in China of about 20 per cent in the year to March and sales of private jets in China are still soaring.

The Chinese luxury market was once the penultimate… but for luxury houses, they are now seeking the next big markets.

Despite the recent troubles, Bruno Lannes of Bain & Company, a consultancy, insists that “Chinese have become, and will remain for a long time, the most important luxury consumers.” His firm estimates that luxury sales in greater China (which includes Taiwan, Hong Kong and Macau) will grow by 6-8 per cent this year, to exceed $US35 billion, making it a luxury market second only to America. In 2012, luxury sales led the way globally with United States posting sales of $US74.6 billion, with China coming in at 5th spot, with sales just shy of $US20 billion.

Chinese tourists are still heading abroad to get their luxury fix, due to high taxes in their homeland. Last year mainland Chinese took 83 million foreign trips, up 18.4 per cent on 2011.

The majority of Chinese looking to undertake a luxury purchase are still researching the internet for the next luxury fix… but some luxury houses are getting it right, whilst others are still not ready.

How will China perform in 2013 for luxury houses? It’s anyone’s guess at the stage..

By Cassandra Murnieks

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Tiffany & Co to open in Moscow

tiffanyandcoIn business, it’s an important element in finding the next big market. Some say that China has been somewhat exhausted, the Yen is damaging the Japanese market and the Euro is still trying to stablise itself in Europe.

Some of the new markets that businesses, including luxury brands are trying to target are Africa and the markets, known as BRIC (Brazil, Russia, India, China).

Tiffany & Co are channelling their interests towards Russia with the news that they will open a two-level store in a high-end department store in Moscow. This business decision will give the American jeweller its first wholly-owned retail business in Russia.

The demand for luxury in Russia has increased dramatically for the fashion houses, who are now scrambling to get themselves established there.

Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Prada and Gucci have all opened in the Russian capital, whilst other luxury brands are investing in Russia with franchising – think Burberry, Ermenegildo Zegna and Giorgio Armani, who are working in collaboration with Mercury Group, the biggest retailer in Russia.

Whilst interest in luxury continues to grow in Russia, there is a lack of infrastructure (similar to India) and it’s posing a challenge to identify their second and third tier cities.

For Tiffany & Co, opening in Moscow will define their business strategy in sourcing new markets, rather than adding to existing markets.

The new store, which will be housed in Moscow’s GUM department store in Red Square is expected to open in the first quarter of 2014 and be about 4,520 square feet.

“Establishing a presence at this pre-eminent department store is a milestone in our growth strategy as a leading global luxury brand and underscores the importance of the Russian market,” Frederic Cumenal, executive vice president at Tiffany told The Wall Street Journal.

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Hermès announce co-CEO

hermesThe LVMH/Hermès war seems to be deepening … with the news that Hermès has installed a member of its founding family as co-CEO as it continues to fight off LVMH in acquiring any further stake in their company and to protect the historic luxury brand.

Reuters reveals that Axel Dumas, a sixth-generation descendant of the French company’s founder, said in a statement this week that he would seek to protect Hermès’ “independence” alongside co-CEO Patrick Thomas, who is due to retire in 2014. Whilst talking about protecting the company, Dumas gave few indications of the company’s future strategy.

At present, Hermès is one of the most expensive stocks in Europe, due to the talk of takeovers and strong financial performance, so we understand why LVMH are circling the French luxury house.

We reported earlier this week in how the battle between the two luxury brands has spilled out in the public eye with market regulators seeking to fine LVMH the maximum fine due to them failing to disclose their stake-building in Hermès.

 Hermès are no doubt hoping that the regulators come down hard on LVMH… but LVMH are saying that they should be treated as an equal shareholder.

LVMH Vice-Chairman Pierre Gode hit back at these criticisms, saying in an interview with French newspaper Le Figaro that LVMH was a shareholder like any other and demanded to be treated as such.

“There is no legal foundation that would allow Hermes to obtain the annulment (of the LVMH stake-building trades).” Gode told Le Figaro. He added that LVMH had filed a lawsuit against Hermès following Dumas’ criticisms, without saying on what grounds or what the specific allegations were.

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